When Paddling Stops, a Rare Cultural Experience Begins!

It’s day five of my trip, and it’s 5 o’clock in the morning. I got about five hours of sleep. My leg seems to be a little better, though it’s still sore and stiff. However, it didn’t cramp or spasm last night. The question I’m pondering is whether I should paddle again on the last day or sit this one out to rest my leg. It’s raining like crazy, and the weather forecast predicts rain all day. The footing is too treacherous for hiking or exploring.

It’s now 7:15 AM, and the winds have really picked up. Paddling has been delayed. The rain stopped, and I’m sitting here with my morning coffee.

It’s now 10 AM, and there’s still no relief from the weather. Paddling is out for the day. So, I thought I’d give you my impressions of Johnstone Strait and an overview of camp life here in the middle of the Inside Passage. What we have planned for the day is exciting, especially if you’re into indigenous cultures like I am. Our guide, Thomas Womiss, is going to give a talk on the Kwakiutl culture and people. He’ll also discuss how his people use nature for medicinal purposes, clothing, and just about everything else. Later this morning or early afternoon, I’ll go for a walk to explore some nearby trails around camp. Later this afternoon, we’ll have lunch, and in the early evening, there will be some hors d’oeuvres, followed by dinner.

I’d like to give you an idea of the kind of people who go on these kinds of explorations. I’m the only American on the trip; everyone else is Canadian. Ages range from the mid-40s and up. There’s one woman who is 77 years old, and of course, there’s me, pushing 80. Canadians are a friendly bunch with lots of stories to share about their adventures, so there’s good dialogue and sharing of experiences and trip ideas.

Last year, during my exploration of Desolation Sound within the Inside Passage, we were definitely glamping. This trip, while not true camping, is as close as you can get. There are pit toilets instead of bathrooms, an outdoor shower, and we’re sleeping in large canvas tents with a sort of bed, which is really a raised platform with an air mattress. On top of that, we have sleeping bags, liners, and pillows. A nice touch is the woolen blanket they provided.

Our cooking setup is straightforward, and there’s a communal dining area and dishwashing area. I’m curious if Thomas will cook us traditional Kwakiutl food.

One fascinating aspect of the area is the trees, specifically the red cedar, which is used for weaving skirts and hats.

After lunch, how about an orca sighting? Not enough? While the orca swam towards us, a sea lion came by to say hello. So much marine life? How about watching a deer stroll through base camp and then jump into the strait to swim across to another island?

At the end of the day, though the rain may have stopped me from paddling, the Inside Passage presents itself in the stories told by Thomas, about the ancestors of the people who live here; the unexpected whale; meals shared with new friends; or the simple act of talking to a stranger who fills you in on the details of their lives. Even in the silence of the moment, when you look around and notice the beauty of the place, this journey is layered with meaning.