The People of the Blue Green Waters

A Journey to the Bottom of the Grand Canyon and the Home of the Havasupai People

September 29 – October 1, 2007

Latitude: 36.2333° N, Longitude: 112.7007° W

The Havasupai people, also known as the “People of the Blue-Green Water,” are a Native American tribe primarily residing in the Havasu Canyon, a part of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. The Havasupai have lived in this region for over 800 years, with a deep connection to the land and the waters of Havasu Creek, which is famous for its stunning turquoise waterfalls. Historically, the Havasupai were a semi-nomadic people, practicing agriculture in the canyon during the summer months and moving to the plateau above the canyon during the winter to hunt and gather food. The Havasupai Reservation is one of the most remote in the United States, accessible only by foot, horseback, or helicopter, and the tribe remains committed to preserving their cultural heritage and the natural beauty of their homeland.

8.5 miles straight down from a parking lot, deep in the bowels of the eastern part of the Grand Canyon, lies the Havasupai reservation.

Photo courtesy of Alamy

Few tourists experience this part of the canyon. Hikers come here to view and swim in the majestic blue green waters that house breathtaking waterfalls.

Those really hearty souls that are willing to risk their lives, can climb down a rickety old ladder to the Colorado River.

On 9/29/2007, I led a small group of hikers on an expedition to the bottom of the canyon. Today, gawkers can walk out on a glass platform to view the canyon. For me and my cohorts, we had to experience it firsthand at eye level, not from thousands of feet above. Descending into the canyon was relatively easy hiking even though it was almost 9 miles to the Havasupai village. As I descended, I started to imagine and dread the steep uphill climb I would face in a few days.

The night before, I noticed I forgot to bring one minor piece of equipment, my hiking boots! Not to worry. Off I went into the nearby town many miles away but I could not find my size. I settled for a pair of boots that was a size too big. My plan was to wear multiple pair of hiking socks. Man plans and God laughs. Upon reaching the base where we were to spend the night, my feet were blistered beyond belief. Both feet had at least 5-6 blisters and they hurt.

That evening we got to sample Havasupai cooking. Our accommodation was primitive to say the least. On the morning of the next day, I taped up my feet, put on my boots, and began to descend even further to the waterfalls, the reservation was famous for. There are five falls to tantalize oneself: The five Havasupai Falls include: Navajo Falls, Fifty Foot Falls, Havasu Falls, Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. At Mooney Falls (another 6+ mile hike with blistered feet), I took off my boots and went swimming to bask in the blue green waters at the base of the falls. Each falls was more spectacular than the other. Due to the condition of my feet, I did not attempt to get down to the river.

Throughout my stay, I observed the people that make their home there. What a hard life it must be, I thought. Mail and some supplies comes in via a weekly helicopter flight or by a burro caravan. The residents didn’t care too much for us being in their home but they did need tourist dollars to help their economy. I noticed trash everywhere. There were dozens of stray dogs, just looking for a meal. They had a burger stand where we ate. The food was fired only and the staff were not friendly. There was a mall grocery store and the staff there were very friendly. I was happy to see that you can’t judge a place by the actions of a few.

Because of my interest in the Apache and related tribes, I wanted to understand the linkage between these two nations. The Havasupai people share cultural and historical ties with the Apache, stemming from their common roots as part of the larger Athabaskan language family. Both the Havasupai and Apache are believed to have migrated from the northern regions of North America thousands of years ago. As they migrated southward, they eventually settled in different areas of the Southwest, with the Havasupai establishing themselves in the Grand Canyon region and the Apache in the broader areas of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas.

All good things must end and so at 5:40 in the morning, I punctured the blisters, taped my feet, put on extra socks and started the climb out of the canyon. It was a 1231 feet of ascending and an average grade of 21%. My feet were fine as long as I walked. When we would stop for a break, the pain was severe and to start walking again was agony. I made it to the top, got in the car and drove back to a hotel. I could no longer walk and had to be helped around. It took a couple of weeks for my feet to return to normal. All-in-all, it was a great trip.