Exploration of Desolation Sound, The Inside Passage, British Columbia, Canada
August 22 – August 29, 2023
Overview:
Expedition Name: Inside Passage Phase 2 – Desolation Sound
Expedition Time: Tuesday, 8/22 – Tuesday, 8/29, 2023 (travel & exploration time). August 24 through August 27 consisted of paddling on different day trips to explore the sound.
Expedition Weather: Based on the last 10 years of data, temperatures have been between 17-18° C / 62-64° F. Sea temperatures have been between 14-19° C / 58-67° F. See each day for the conditions we paddled in (temperature and winds).
Objective of the trip: In an attempt to experience and see more of the Inside Passage, this exploration is the second in a series of phases of explorations. This phase will allow us to explore remote islands, wildlife, and marine life, as well as water conditions of this part of the passage. A further goal is to gain more experience paddling in a variety of sea conditions (longer open water crossings, wind, waves, tides, and currents). If possible, we will seek to gain insights on the indigenous peoples that inhabited and still inhabit this part of the passage.
Exploration Team: I was accompanied by my daughter-in-law, Michelle Rein.
In addition, there were 6 other adventurers, 2 guides, and 2 chefs (remaining at base camp).
Our Guides and Adventurers
Powell River Sea Kayaking Tour Company:
We used a guided service (Powell River Sea kayaking Tours) that provided, in addition to guiding, all the equipment, provisions and kayaks needed for this exploration.
They are located at:
Address: 10676 Crowther Rd, Powell River, BC V8A 0G4, Canada
Notable Gear:
We paddled a 22’ tandem Seaward Passat G3 kayak with Aqua Bound paddles, Kokatat MsFit PFD’s, and Brooks spray skirts. I also carried an inReach satellite tracker with SOS capability.
Indigenous Cultures of the Area:
This area of the passage is ancestral home to the Tla’amin Nation. We drove through their nation on the way to Okeover Inlet. I was very impressed by the quality of life the nation has created for their people. Once in the Sound, we were in the homeland of the Klahoose Nation. Their main village sits on Cortes Island and spans over to Toba Inlet.
Explorations by Day:
Launch Site:
- Powell River Sea Kayak HQ (Okeover Arm – Malaspina Peninsula)
- Latitude 50.009261 Longitude -124.721346
- Elevation 56m / 184 feet
Base Camp (Desolation Sound):
- Kinghorn Island – Straits of Georgia, Inside Passage, British Columbia Canada
- Latitude 50.087700 Longitude -124.847838
- Elevation 113m / 370 feet
Thursday, August 24:
We launched from Powell River Sea Kayak (PRSK) around 11 AM on our way to our base camp located in the northeast corner of Kinghorn Island. I am a Texan that has yet to see marine mammals in the wild, so I get excited spotting many seals basking in the sunshine. Weather at launch was 63° and 8 knot winds. Paddling speed was 1.9 mph. We took a break for lunch on an island (no name). Weather in the afternoon warmed up to 69° and 4 knot winds. We picked up the pace and paddled 2.5 mph.
A total of 9.53 miles
Upon arriving at base camp, we unloaded, stored the kayaks above anticipated high tide, and settled into our cabanas. The place was spectacular. Everything from the food, the camaraderie, the facilities, and the guides and staff was first rate.
Friday, August 25:
After a tiring day yesterday, the guides suggested we explore West Redondo Island and visit Refuge Cove. Refuge Cove is a bit of a tourist attraction and has stores for supplies and fresh food, a laundry facility, restrooms etc. . I am enclosing a link to a short video that captures the majesty of the sound and will give you a flavor of Refuge Cove and why it is a special place. Again, we were entertained by seals that make their home on just about anywhere. Weather was perfect again with temperature at 75° and only 6 knot winds. We paddles at 2.1 mph. We ate lunch that the chefs prepared and the guides brought and looked at several of the anchored yachts that moored there in preparation for the return trips as the summer season is ending. On our way back to our base camp. We were treated to spotting a Humpback Whale proudly displaying his / her fluke. On the return, the temperature hit 82° and winds picked up to 9 knots. Our speed diminished to 1.7 mph.
A total of 6.71 miles
The short paddling day felt good and we needed the rest as the last two days were to be taxing for this paddler and Michelle.
Saturday, August 26:
Today would be the toughest paddling day so far. We would explore the Copeland Islands (located just west of the Malaspina Peninsula). Another world-class day. Temps at 70° and 2 knots of wind made the long crossing from Kinghorn Island pleasurable. These open waters of the Straits of Georgia are sometimes 2-3 miles long. Either they were porpoises or dolphins, but whichever, they were a sight to see. We cruised along at a 2.5 mph pace. A short stretch of rapids (class 1 or 2 at most) woke us up and made for a fun distraction.
We stopped here at North Copeland Island for lunch before heading back. This was the first time we had paddled for three consecutive days and my shoulder cried for help and Tylenol Extra Strength and Gu came to the rescue. As such we would only muster a 1.9 mph paddling pace. Temps warmed up to 77° and winds increased slightly to 8 knots. At night, we saw a Starlink Satellite train in the sky and some of the group went into the water to catch the bioluminescence.
A total of 9.53 miles
Sunday, August 27:
For our last day of paddling, the guides took us around the north shore of Kinghorn Island and around the horn. We paddled past amazingly high cliffs and were treated to sea urchins of every color. I saw my first bald eagle perched high on the cliffs watching these people watch it. Of course, there had to be more seals to entertain us. We hit 2.7 mph in temps of 77° and 5 knot winds. Another no name island served as a lunch spot. Getting recharged after the 7-mile paddle, we made the final push for Okeover Inlet and our car. We hit 2.6 mph paddling speed with temperatures at 82° and 7 knot winds.
A total of 10.03 miles
After four consecutive days of paddling, we logged a total of 35.8 miles.
We then took the ferry from Powell River to Comox on Vancouver Island and drove down to Nanaimo for a day of exploring Vancouver Island’s eastern shore line and the Harbor Walk in Nanaimo, while taking in the beauty and power of the Straits of Georgia.
Gallery of Photos:
Food and Accommodations:
As this was a glamping trip, the food and accommodations were over the top. Hot breakfasts and dinners were served daily. Lunches consisted of gourmet salads and wraps. All meals ended with incredible deserts. Coffee service was delivered to our cabanas at the exact time we requested it.
Morning Coffee or Tea Service Right to the Room.
Breakfasts ranged from Southwestern Bowl, Poached Eggs, and Pancakes with Yogurt and berries and nuts.
Dinners consisted of Salmon on the first night, Braised Short Ribs on the second and Halibut our last night there. While presented elegantly, it was healthy and with consecutive paddling days, I lost a needed 5 pounds.
The cabanas: Cabanas were rustic but had large double beds, dressers, sink with running water, and a shower. Bathrooms were strategically located throughout the cabana area with flush toilets and eco-friendly urinals.
The Café: The café (as it is called) is where afternoon snacks were served, breakfast and dinners served, and a general common area for discussing the days adventures.
Some thoughts on What went Right and What Went Wrong:
What went Right:
- The scenery, wildlife, and camaraderie
- Friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful guides and staff
- The food, accommodations, and weather
- The emphasis placed on leave no trace, water conservation, and eco-minded philosophy of PRSK.
- The sea kayaking equipment quality
- The laid-back environment enabling us to soak it all in. No stress or drama!
What went Wrong (really, nothing was bad!). it should be titled what I could do better next time:
- I brought too much clothing and things I did not need or use.
- The GoPro mounts were problematic. The clip-on mount could not be used due to us using spray skirts over the coming and the tripod mount had some issues (user error, not the equipment).
- I forgot to charge the satellite tracker (inReach) so a day of paddling wasn’t captured. Luckily my Garmin Instinct watch captured the data.
- My GoPro photography skills are lacking. Pictures of the wildlife did not come out well.
In summary, it is hard to imagine it getting better than this. The trip exceeded our expectations!
Sunrise & Sunsets Over Kinghorn Island
MN'24 | © Copyright 2023 Reflections Off The Grid | Bob Rein