Bob’s Walk Through History on Cormorant Island

In the final leg of his North Vancouver Island expedition, Bob dives deep into the cultural landscape of Cormorant Island. The day begins with a ferry ride from Port McNeil to Alert Bay, setting the stage for a full immersion into indigenous heritage. Guided by Thomas, a local expert, Bob’s journey reveals the connections between the Pacific Northwest’s land, people, and traditions.

Exploring Totems, Traditions, and Tough Terrains

The adventure kicks off at a unique site. A combination cemetery with a gathering of totem poles. Here, Thomas walks Bob through the significance of these towering carvings, each pole telling stories of ancestral lineage, spiritual beliefs, and the island’s history. Moving through the site feels like a walk through a time capsule, where the past and present exist at the same time.

From there, the group proceeds on what feels like an endless trek—Bob joking that it feels like a million miles followed by an incredibly steep 300-meter climb through woodland trails. The climb ended at a small Indigenous farm where Jody Nelson, an Indigenous activist, shared his inspiring vision. Nelson’s work focuses on fostering cultural pride among Indigenous youth, using a transformative approach that immerses them in their native language and traditions. His Nawalakw foundation, based in Hada’s sacred center, seeks to empower future generations through cultural education. Nelson’s dedication and the 5-day immersion program left a strong impression on Bob, prompting him to explore grant opportunities from The Explorers Club to support the expansion of this important work. As a token of appreciation, Nelson gifted Bob a Nawalakw T-shirt, symbolizing a shared mission to nurture cultural pride.

Steeper Descents and Cultural Discoveries

After the strenuous climb, Thomas led the group down an even steeper hill to the U’mista Cultural Centre. But first, the group refueled with a hearty lunch of traditional fish stew—a satisfying mix of salmon, crab, potatoes, onions, and of course, the famous fried bread. For seafood lovers, it’s a feast that perfectly complements the day’s exploration.

Inside the U’mista Cultural Centre, the are displays of artifacts, masks, clothing, jewelry, and weaving that were once looted from the Kwakiutl tribe and dispersed into private collections worldwide. Now, these pieces are gradually being repatriated, reconnecting the community with its rich artistic heritage. Each exhibit features detailed write-ups on notable Kwakiutl tribal artists, offering a comprehensive look into every facet of their culture. As Thomas, the guide, leads Bob through the exhibits, his in-depth explanations provide a deeper understanding that would otherwise be impossible to obtain. For Bob, this visit is a dream come true for an indigenous ethnographer, offering a direct link to the living and evolving culture of the Pacific Northwest.

A message from Bob

When I decided to do this trip, I had four goals in mind. The first was to explore a northern section of the inside passage. I certainly got to see Marine, life, nature, and awesome scenery all from a kayak. My second goal was to immerse myself in the indigenous culture of the tribe of the area. I not only did this, but I made relationships that will last way beyond the scope of this trip. The third goal I had was to visit the Great Bear rainforest. I not only visited the forest, but I also got to see the Grizzly Bears that are legendary within this massive unceded territory that the tribes own. The last goal was to simulate a longer more complex expedition via the use of Support. My support came in the form of Tom McGuire. Tom assisted me in transmitting daily, weather water, and environmental conditions so I would have a preview of what to expect. I would then relay back what I was seeing on the ground so he could determine the accuracy of the models that he was using. Another part of the experiment was to see how someone in the field can communicate on social media daily through blogs and Social Media, exactly what I was experiencing in the field.  Reading this – you know that was a success also.

From Bob: I’m sitting outside the cultural center, looking at a monument dedicated to the children who were taken from their parents with the belief that if you kill the Indian, you save the child. These children were removed from their families, forbidden to speak their language, and disconnected from their culture. They were sent to what was called residential schools, where they were forced to adopt the white man’s way of life and were only allowed to speak English. This is a tragedy similar to other genocides or holocausts. It’s heartbreaking to see the little monuments here—children’s shirts, dresses, toys, and crosses—honoring those who were never allowed to return. Perhaps some of them will be found in the graves being discovered around various former residential schools.